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Baluchistan

West of the Indus Plains is Baluchistan, the largest province in Pakistan with an
area about 343,000 square km. But though it's bigger than the British
Isles, it only has a population of about one million, due mainly to its
daunting arid geography. In
the south of the province, Makran is almost entirely desert with low, dry
hills rising from 300 meters to 2500 meters in the north. In the west
there is a large salt lake, Hammum-i-Maskhel, and more expansive desert
plains. This is where the Chagai and Toba Kakar Mountain Ranges form the
borders of Iran, Afghanistan and Pakistan.
Baluchistan is outside the
monsoon zone and has, with the exception of the hilly and arid mountainous
regions, a pleasant climate. In winter the temperature falls to as low as
- 30 C while in summer it ranges from 18 to 30 C. The province has been
influenced by the civilizations in the Indus, Dir and Swat Valleys. One of
the oldest Neolithic sites (6000 BC) is to be found at Mehr Ghar just
south of Bolan Pass. This culture faded away in 3000 BC about the same
time that the Indus Valley Civilization
emerged. Fiercely
independent Baluchistan never really became part of the Mughal Empire, but
effectively remained an autonomous frontier tributary. In India they
fought the Hindus and gained some influence in the Punjab and Sindh. In
order to survive they expediently changed their loyalty and allegiance
when necessary; at one time with the Moghuls, then the Persians and the
Afghans, but their constant was the fight for Islam. When the Mughal power
declined they took on the Sikhs, the Marathis and finally the British, who
arrived in 1841. Makran,
once a thriving region with its capital in Panjgur and commercial entrepot
in Tiz with 'great warehouses, palm groves and a beautiful mosque, with
people of all nations', simply dried up.
Baluchistan is where the
alternative rout of the Euro-Asian Highway passes from Zahedan in Iran to
Taftan in Baluchistan and on to Quetta. Another alternative road turns
south from Kandahar in Afghanistan into Chaman in Baluchistan - this was
the route for freight bound for Afghanistan arriving through Karachi
harbour. Apart from its importance as a transit area, there are mineral
resources which are just beginning to be tapped. The Sui district has one
of the largest gas deposits in the
world. Baluchistan is a
province of contrasts. It has some of the bleakest landscape in the
country with grim, jagged mountains, barren and arid land where the sparse
greenery shrivels and wilts, but hidden away are some stunningly beautiful
places.
Quetta
Quetta, the capital of Baluchistan, is linked
by air, rail and road with all the major cities of Pakistan, particularly
Karachi which has an international airport. Ziarat is connected by 133 km
road from Quetta. Regular coach, bus and wagon services ply between Quetta
and Ziarat, particularly during the tourist season. Quetta is situated
at elevation of 1677 meters (5500 ft). Quetta is one of the best known
tourist resort and also provincial capital of Baluchistan. The name Quetta
is derived from the world ' Kuwatta' which means a fort. The city is
surrounded by imposing hills like Chiltan, Takatoo, Murdar and Zarghun. It
lies 1692 meters above sea level at the mouth of Bolan Pass. The
inhabitants are mainly Pathans, Baluch and Brahuis. Nomadic tribes- man
pass through Quetta valley during spring and autumn with their herds of
sheep and camels.
Hana Lake
A little short of the place where the
Urak valley begins and ten kms from Quetta is the Hinna Lake. The
greenish- blue water of the lake provides a rich contrast to the
sandy brown of the hills in the back ground.
The Urak valley is 21 km from Quetta
city. The road is lying on both sides with wild roses and fruit
orchards. Peaches, palms, apricots and apples of many varieties are
grown in this valley. Hazarganji
Chiltan National Park, 20 km south-west of Quetta, rare animals
like' Markhors' have been declared a protected species. The park is
spread over 38,429 acres with altitude ranging from 2021 to 3264
meters. It has a variety of wildlife
specially Markhor of which there are five distinct kinds. The kind
that is encountered most often is the Chiltan Markhor. The other
animals include straight-horned Markhor, 'gad' (wild sheep) and
leopards which occasionally migrate to the park from other areas,
wolves stripped hyaena, hares, wild cats and porcupines.
Coastline
The coastline of Baluchistan extends over 750
kms from Hub near Karachi, to the Gawadar Bay on Pakistan-Iran border. The
whole area is rich with a variety of marine life and has long sunny
beaches. Coastal towns of Pasni, Jiwani and Gawadar are linked by air with
Karachi. The coastal tribes are as colorful as those of central and upper
Baluchistan. Their colorful costumes, songs and dances are fascinating.
Passes
Bolan Pass
Along Bolan Pass, where the road winds through
the picturesque mountains one is reminded of the huge odds that the armies
from Central Asia and north must have faced when swooping down the plains
of he present day Pakistan.
Khojak Pass
The Khojak Pass leads directly to the border
of Afghanistan which is 153 kms away from Quetta. The scenery is as
breath-taking here as it is at Bolan Pass. The journey to the border town
of Chaman passes through a 4 kms tunnel, more than 1945 meters above sea
level.
Lak Pass
Lak Pass is located between Kalat and Quetta.
Here the highway takes a turn for Koh-e-Taftan, Saindak copper mines and
Zahidan in Iran. On the hills, oblivious to the presence of the traffic
and humans, hundreds of sheep browse upon the scant grass available.
Ziarat
Pakistan has a number of beautiful
valleys, enchanting their spectators with enthralling beauty but
Ziarat's is importance and an archaic treasure of Junipers forests.
Situated about 122 km in the north of metropolis city of Quetta in
Baluchistan, this popular picnic resort is at the elevation of 8,200
feet from the sea level. The summers in the valley are always
pleasant, attracting a number of tourists, and the winters extremely
harsh. Junipers forests, which are one of the world oldest, are the
main source of lush green vista of the Ziarat valley. some of the
trees in Junipers forests had been sowed as long as 5000 years ago,
making Ziarat as the second biggest Junipers valley in the
world.The word Ziarat means a 'shrine' (grave
of a holy man). A folklore tells a saint, Kharwari Baba, who is believed
to have stayed in the valley and blessed it. He was a member of Sarangzai
tribe and his original name was Mulla Tahir. Later he became a disciple of
Nana Sahib. A number of miracles are attributed to Khurwari Baba. The
shrine of Khurwari Baba, after which Ziarat was named, is located 8 km
away from Ziarat and is visited by a large number of people to pay
attribute to the divine soul. Ziarat takes pride in hosting
Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan on a number of
occasions. He also spent the last days of his life in a government
residency there. This monumental residency was built in 1882 by the
British government and till independence was in the use of the agents of
the British governor general for India as their summer headquarters.
The residency is embellished with beautiful lawns, covered with grassy
carpets and with roses, dancing at the rhythmic tunes of wind, all around
the garden. From there one can have a striking view of the picturesque
valley.
The
Gorges
Baluchistan is an arid land which receives
very low rainfall annually. But innumerable natural springs known as
'Karez' and streams provide enough water for drinking and cultivation of
fruits and crops in most o the areas. There are more than half a dozen
gorges around Ziarat formed by natural 'Karez' - spring water falling
through narrow openings amongst the mountain rocks producing a dramatic
effect. The sound of waterfalls singing to the tune of solid rocks while
passing through narrow gorges creates a mystic atmosphere. The famous
gorges along the road to Ziarat are Chutair Tangi, Kahn Tangi, Kawas
Tangi, Fern Tangi and Sandeman Tangi. One can approach easily to these
gorges by diverting from the main road to have a picnic, adventure and
fun.
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