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Kashmir
Physically scythe-shaped, the territory of Azad Kashmir is dotted
with a vast chain of scenic and natural beauty spots amidst flowing
streams, gushing out springs and flowering plants. The mountain tops
over the valley look like circular and rectangular caps. The panorama is
really enchanting.
The valley rivals those of Kaghan and Swat in beauty and boasts of
remarkable alpine scenery. It is bounded to the east by the line of
control or (ceasefire line) with Indian held Kashmir and travel to
foreigners is rather restricted.
Azad Kashmir extends from the plains of Mirpur at the northern edge of
the Punjab through the outlying foothills of the Himalayas, to the
mountains in the north at 6,000 meters above sea level. It is drained by
three major rivers, the Jhelum, the Neelam and the Poonch whose valleys
are very beautiful.
There are four districts of Azad Kashmir namely Muzaffarabad, Poonch,
Kotli and Mirpur. These districts abound in natural beauty and rivers
and streams flow throughout Azad Kashmir.
All the four districts have lush green forests which provide cool breeze
and foliage to the visitors.
Roads are the only means of transport in Azad Kashmir and play a basic
role in the development of the territory. The area of Azad Kashmir is
5134 square miles land strip in the shape of a crescent moon, 250 mile
in length with width varying from 10 to 40 miles. The terrain is mostly
rugged and mountainous with 15,000 feet high mountains in north-west
touching the Punjab plains. The area is criss-crossed with rivers and
numerous nullahs.
The total length of roads in Azad Kashmir is 730 miles of metalled and
530 miles of fair-weather roads in addition to 830 miles of link roads.
Situated at the confluence of the Jhelum and the Neelum rivers
Muzaffarabad the capital of the State of Azad Jammu and Kashmir is at a
distance of 86 miles from Rawalpindi and 49 miles from Abbottabad.
Surrounded by mountains, it looks like a walled town. It is the
administrative capital of Azad Kashmir. Behind the Secretariat to the
east is a road climbing above the town from where one can walk up to Pir
Chinasi at 2,900 meters with good views of the Jhelum Valley and the
higher mountains above the Neelum to the north. From the cool on the
Abbottabad Road, you can walk along the ridge looking over the Jhelum
and Kunhar rivers.
Past the Red fort, crossing Neelum river at Ghori, a few km way is 'Makra
mountain' 3,890 meters which is visible from Muzaffarabad and continues
on to Shogran in the Kaghan Valley. This is a superb short trek,
although you need to camp overnight halfway.
The upper Jhelum valley makes another interesting scenic excursion from
Muzaffarabad. follow the Jhelum upstream, taking the road beneath the
Domel bridge. This was the old route to Srinagar. The valley is broad
with raised terraces above the river. Rice and maize are widely grown.
Some 10 kms out of Muzaffarabad the river widens to from a small lake.
This was created by a landslip some years ago. There is a small Angler's
Hut here, which makes a pleasant picnic spot. It is possible to take
boats out on the river. Book through the Tourist Department in
Muzaffarabad.
The city was founded by Sultan Muzaffar Khan of Bamba dynasty and was
the seat of an independent State for quite a long period under his
successors.
The city is now a combination of old and new buildings and a blend of
different cultures and languages. It has besides official buildings,
farms, parks and the historic forts standing on the banks of the Neelum,
Muzaffarabad, Mirpur, Rawlakot and Kotli are connected with Pakistan by
the Micro-weave system of telephone.
There are rest houses, good hotels and guest houses in Muzaffarabad city
where the tourists can stay.
The rather sleazy bazaar in Muzaffarabad can be explored for its walnut
carvings and its Kashmiri shawls. It is sometimes possible to get a good
bargain.
Muzaffarabad Fort
Border skirmishes between the armies of renowned Mughal Akbar and the
Chak rulers of Kashmir were common. To ensure safety of the people, and
the land, the Chaks realized to raise defense posts and efficiently
counter the offensives.
During the year 1949 the construction of the red fort was undertaken. It
was finally completed by Sultan Muzaffar Khan the founder of
Muzaffarabad city during 1646. When the Mughals overtook the Kashmir
rule, this fort lost its importance. The Mughals were more interested in
Kabul, Bokhara and Badakshan. During the Durrani rule the fort again
came into limelight and its importance was rediscovered.
Maharaja Gulab Sign and Ranbir Singh, the Dogra rulers, reconstructed
and extended the fort for political and military operations. Towards the
end of 1947 the Dogra forces filed away leaving the fort wide open to
anybody.
The architectonics of the fort show that great experts in design and
structure participated in its construction. It is surrounded on three
sides by Neelum river formally known as Kishan Ganga. the northern part
had terraces with steps leading to the bank of the river. The Eastern
side of the fort was very well protected from the hazards of flood
waters but some parts in the north were slightly damaged. There was an
inn at the entry of the fort which has to traces left now.
It has been in the bad shape for quite some time and wears deserted
look. The structure still stands with all its inherent glory, grandeur
and its historical background.
Dhirkot is best approached from Rawalpindi via Murree and the nearby
Kohala Bridge over the Jhelum, the gateway to Azad Kashmir. It is small
township situated at 6,000 feet above sea level and has a bracing
climate. It is famous for its healthy surroundings, high altitude
landscape.
The town also is famous for the beauty spots. Almost all the area is
covered with green trees like deodar, pine and oak. the Dak Bungalow -
rest house - which is situated amidst the dense forest is 5,500 feet
above the sea level. the Dhirkot is also famous for the fruits mainly
apples and apricots.
Bagh
Bagh, the Tehsil Headquarters of Distt. Poonch, is situate at the
confluence of two mini rivers - Malwani and Mall which flow all the year
round.
Bagh city comprises at least 5,000 shops and has a hospital. the total
population of the Tehsil Headquarters is over 3 lacs. Two rest houses
are available for tourists. Permission for stay can be obtained from the
nearby Forest Department, P.W.D. There are two degree colleges, one is
for boys and the other for girls. 'Haji Pir Pass' is 20 miles from Bagh
city which is linked with metalled road.
Chikar
The hill station of Chikar, 27 miles from Muzaffarabad has grown into
a fairly large township. Three miles from Chikar is the hill station
known as Loonbagla which is situated in the middle of a vast range of
densely grown forests.
The outstanding features of this hill station are its healthy climate
and picturesque surroundings.
Chikar is linked with Muzaffarabad by a motor able road and is connected
with Bagh in Poonch district via Sudhan Gali.
Chinary
Chinary situated some 40 miles from Muzaffarabad is a scenic place
with a very enchanting Rest House built by the former Dogra rulers. It
lies just some twenty yards upward in the Bazaar. A visitor can easily
see the Occupied Area beyond the border above 10 miles away.
The city has a Telephone Exchange, a first class dispensary. It is
famous for its fruits such as apples, apricots, walnuts and honey.
It is a valley of fountains, springs, waterfalls, flowering trees and
plants. Geographically too, it is a hospitable valley. The Neelum
Valley, 90 miles long bow-shaped with majestic pine, fir and deodar
trees, lies north-south of Muzaffarabad (capital). This ninety-mile long
kingdom of vegetation is ripped apart by the indigo blue Neelum river
which flows serpentine down hills to merge itself into the river Jhelum
at Domail. Domail, the confluence of two mighty rivers, presents highly
fascinating scene of youthful embrace. This heart-warning spectacle is
most soothing to the eye.
The valley, starting from Muzaffarabad, the capital of Azad Kashmir, is
about 150 miles long. It lies on both sides of the river Neelum.
The geographical features enhance the natural beauty of the Valley. Its
elevation, a mere 2,000 feet at the start, gradually rises till it
attains a respectable height of 8,000 feet. On both sides there are high
mountains and peaks. Nearly all the forest wealth of Azad Kashmir is to
be found in this part of the State.
There are two approaches to the valley. One from the Kaghan Valley which
is linked with it at two points, the Nuri Nari Hali (Pass) and the Ratti
Gali and many minor Passes. From Dawarian it takes two days for hiking
or riding and night stay at Dharian at 12,000 feet.
The second approach is from Muzaffarabad. It is a distance of 55 miles
which is jeepable in fair weather. The Neelum meets the Jhelum river at
Domali (meeting of the two) on the outskirts of Muzaffarabad city. From
Paticka forest one reaches Nosari, 24 miles ahead of Muzaffarabad. Next
come Chaliana (height 3,200 feet), Qazi Nag, Barian, Salkhela, Kundal
Shahi, Athmaqam on this road. On a number of places, the local
population has built rope crossings on the river. It is a very dangerous
device and the very thought of crossing these points is horrible but
thrilling.
Tao Butt is an example of vegetation generosity of the liberal nature.
The spot is donned with all delicacies and niceties. Nature flirts here
with fantastic environment. The forest wealth abounds in the Neelum
Valley. Deodar, pine, fir, wild walnut, strawberry and hosts of other
high stature trees and other types of wild growth and herbs are the
treasure of the valley. Besides being invaluable in economic terms, the
variety of natural growth offers a captivating scenery. Shunder Hill
tops are covered with green forests and the fields are lush green with
crops.
Bhateeka
The valley is accessible by an all weather road metalled up to Kundal
Shahi and well maintained up to Kel. At the gateway to the Valley lies a
sprawling town of Bhateeka with a dependable commercial centre. For a
tourist, Bhateeka can be the first journey break. This town has a modest
bazaar with day-to-day activity. All essential items are available in
the bazaar which feeds a fairly large number of villages behind it. On
its back runs the forth-emitting river Neelum. The village and bazaar
are connected by a suspension bridge crossable by jeep alone. This old
bridge is being replaced with an RCC one enabling it to afford heavy
traffic. The running streams, water channels and water falls across the
Bhateeka village presents another heart winning scene. It is fully
electrified.
A few years back, the Federal Minister of Power and Water, Government of
Pakistan had a hydel station built in this village over a perennial
nullah which is in fact a mini river of Bhateeka. The quality of life
here is full of emotions despite its simplicity. It is perhaps due to
verdure. Financially, it is an affluent town. Majority of the village
folk is engaged in profitable business abroad especially in the Middle
East countries. A number of scheduled banks of Pakistan are operating in
the village on the strength of remittances from abroad. But despite
fattening coffers, the town has no industrial activity. The ratting of
machinery is unknown to the town.
The serene atmosphere shrouded into lush greenery and milky-white
waterfalls and water curses and their rhythmic flow totally absorbs the
visitors. Added to the general plant fragrance is the sweet smell of
menthol plants along the banks of the nullah, it cuts its way across the
crop-fields in such wavy manner that it looks as a white ribbons over
green head of damsel Nature. Bhateeka is linked by ancillary roads with
other surrounding areas uphill and downhill.
Kundal Shahi
The other midway station in Kundal Shahi. Also a small commercial centre. Kundal Shahi headquarter the operational centre of the Azad Kashmir Logging and Saw Mills which is responsible for timber extraction to commercial markets in Pakistan. Kundal Shahi station has a rest house manned by the logging and saw mills at the Western bank of river Neelum adjacent to metalled road. A tourist range bifurcates from Kundal Shahi to Jagra Nullah which is again a mini river running all the year round. Its water is glass-like limpid having good potential for trout fish development. The range is also accessible by a kutcha but well maintained road. The forests are so thick in the range that a trip to the range would be like going through a tunnel. It is tunnel of forest indeed.
Rawalakot is situated in the heart of Poonch district at a height of 6,000 feet and is a plain saucer shaped valley. It is approachable from Rawalpindi via Kohala and Azad Pattan by motor able roads.
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